Stock – otherwise known as broth – is one of the most
satisfying things I ever make in my kitchen. It’s really easy, economical,
nutritious, and the flavor payoff is huge. If you’ve never made it, you must
definitely give it a try. Then you’ll be hooked.
I do not claim to be a stock expert – so all you folks with
formal culinary training, feel free to chime in. But I think the most important
thing is having a few basic guidelines (which I’m going to give you) and
following your own intuition – as well as your taste buds!
For those of you who know me, I need to add that I’ve
drifted back and forth between vegetarian, vegan and carnivorous diets for my
entire life. Right now, I’ve entered a mostly-vegetarian phase, where about 80%
of my meals are meatless, with the occasional chicken and fish.
The procedure I give here is for chicken broth – but if
you’re a vegetarian, the instructions are really pretty much the same: just
leave out the bird.
So, a couple of weeks ago, I roasted a whole organic Bell
& Evans chicken. This was a basic roasted chicken – I split it in half,
drizzled it with olive oil, salted and peppered it, and placed it in a large
baking dish with a whole slew of quartered onions and several garlic cloves. So
easy. Then I roasted it until it was done. The meat provided a couple of meals.
Then, with the carcass sitting in the refrigerator on the 3rd day,
we were headed out of town, so I popped the whole dish into the freezer.
One week later, it was time to make stock. (Ok, this is how
you do it now!):
I filled a large kettle (a stockpot) with 4 liters of
purified water, and put it on the stove, on high heat, to bring it to a boil.
Meanwhile, I added the frozen chicken carcass (scraps, fat & all) to the
water. Then, I added some vegetable scraps and whole veges: a few stalks of
celery, a turnip, half of a fennel bulb, a few small pieces of bell pepper, a
couple of carrots, two large Spanish onions, 4 or 5 bay leaves.
No need to do a lot of prep on the vegetables – rinse, peel
(or not), trim (or not). I usually cut
them into manageable chunks, or quarter them. (If you’re making vegetable stock, use more
veges – and be sure to include some dark leafy greens like mustard, collards,
or turnip greens, because they add an incredible punch of flavor.)
No vegetables are really off-limits – but it’s better to
avoid the ones that would overpower the broth, such as cabbage, broccoli, or
garlic. Also, potatoes will break down and create a cloudy stock, which is ok
from a flavor standpoint, but looks awful and spoils the texture. Be sure to go
with plenty of onions, carrots and celery – the Holy Trinity….or is that
onions, celery and bell pepper? Anyway. All of those are good.
And NOW for the exciting secret to the best, richest most
flavorful broth ever!!!! DRIED MUSHROOMS. So amazing. I added about 3 to 4
ounces of dried shitake mushrooms.
(Bought in bulk from Your Dekalb Farmer’s Market, they’re super cheap.)
Go for the mushrooms, they will change your life. Or at least your stock.
Anyway, at this point, just let it simmer. Mine simmered on
medium-low heat most of the day on Saturday.
I did not feel like dealing with it after that, so I just put a folded
towel on the refrigerator shelf to disperse the heat, put the lid on it, set
the stock pot containing hot broth on the shelf, and went to bed.
The next day, I removed the pot and skimmed off the chicken
fat and set it aside for the cats. (It also makes good human food, if you like
it.) Take another kettle and set a colander in it. (Get out all your pots &
pans now, and whatever containers the broth will be stored in. Store it in
pints or quarts, or in single cup servings, for easy thawing.)
Pour the contents of the stock pot into the colander. You
may have to do this in a couple of batches. Once you’ve strained the large
pieces out, pour through a fine sieve into clean jars or other freezer storage
containers. Label the containers with a Sharpie (date, contents, quantity) and
freeze.
Your homemade stock will transform anything – make soup, rice,
sauces, whatever. The idea is for the stock to be flavorful, but sort of
neutral. You don’t typically salt or season it, so that later, it can take on
whatever character is needed for a recipe. It is so rich, that it can actually
be diluted with a little water when making the recipe.
The improv Asian-style soup you see in the picture above was
made with my stock, water, soy sauce, toasted sesame oil, garlic, ginger,
jalapenos, carrots, parsnips, green onion and a few rice noodles. It went
together almost as fast as packaged ramen. And, it was off the chain.
My most recent batch of stock made about one gallon.

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